AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black)

Black Friday AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) 2011 Deals

Nov 15, 2011 08:24:42

Black Friday AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) Deals
Click for larger image and other views

AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black)

>> Click here to update Black Friday prices for AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) <<

Black Friday AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) Feature

  • Tilt & turn TV mount for screen sizes up to 40" and 66 lbs
  • Mount Reduces glare and provides better viewing angles while saving space and organizing your AV Equipment
  • Compatible with VESA mounting patterns up to 400mm x 300mm
  • 2 Attached Shelves are constructed out of tempered glass, are independently height adjustable, and can hold up to 22 lbs each
  • Universal compatibility and the modular design of the products with an 'easy-click' locking mechanism make installation as easy as 1-2-3.


Black Friday AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) Overview

The AVF ESL422B-T is a ‘Tilt & Turn' TV mount with attached dual AV shelves for screen sizes up to 40". This unit supports flat panel TV's up to 66 lbs, has the capacity to hold 22 lbs per shelf and is compatible with VESA mounting patterns up to 800mm x 400mm. The shelves are constructed out of tempered glass and are height adjustable to accommodate larger AV equipment. The ESL422B-T turns for improved viewing angles and reduced glare. It provides integrated cable management and comes with a 2-year limited warranty.About the company: AVF is a world leading supplier of TV wall mounts, support systems and accessories with over 30 years experience supplying worldwide markets. AVF's ECO-MOUNT range is a complete range of flat panel TV wall mounts based on one modular family look. These flat panel mounts offer functionality from flat-to-wall through to multi-position in small, medium and large size categories, and are complimented by A/V Component Shelving mounts. Universal compatibility and the modular design of the products with an 'easy-click' locking mechanism make installation as easy as 1-2-3. An efficient manufacturing process using common modular component parts for the range means Eco-Mount uses fewer raw materials, produces less waste and, crucially, products are designed to fit in boxes that are 50% smaller than similar products available in stores. This has led to a reduction in packaging and transportation and, as a consequence, a reduction in CO2 emissions.



SAVE NOW on Black Friday offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Black Friday AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black)

Limited Offer Today!! AVF ESL422B-T Tilt and Turn TV Mount with 2 AV Shelves, Cable Management System for 25-Inch to 40-Inch TV (Black) Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

Table Shelves Digital Camera Powershot Redfield Scopes

Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs

Black Friday Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs 2011 Deals

Nov 14, 2011 11:31:12

Black Friday Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs Deals
Click for larger image and other views

Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs

>> Click here to update Black Friday prices for Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs <<

Black Friday Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs Feature

  • Holds 70LBS
  • Cable Management
  • Aluminum and Glass Construction
  • Easy Assembly
  • Drywall or Stud installation


Black Friday Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs Overview

The AS3B is a tri-shelf cable management system. It can be used with or without a Plasma/LCD mount. This unit is designed to fit under your display and provide an on wall solution for other components such as cable boxes, DVD players, game consoles, and stereo components. There are three 2.25-Inch holes on the aluminum plate that allow you to cleanly run your cables up to your TV or down to another component, as well as out the bottom to an outlet. After reviewing our competition we realized that most shelving units need to be mounted directly into a wall stud. In most cases the wall stud is placed to the right or to the left of the display, which is not where most people prefer to have their shelves mounted. This is still the most secure option however, after significant research we’ve fount that using the correct toggle bolts can allow you to mount your shelving unit wherever you see fit. With the combination of four of these toggle bolts the shelving unit is able to hold well over 70LBS safely. Each individual toggle bolt provides 75LBS of support. Please not that a good toggle bolt is still only as good as the quality of the drywall it is mounted into. If you have water damage or .25-Inch drywall please add a support for your shelving unit.



SAVE NOW on Black Friday offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Black Friday Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs

Limited Offer Today!! Cheetah Mounts AS3B 3 Component Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD TVs Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

Waterproof Mattress Topper Decorative Shelving Brackets

CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair

Black Friday CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair 2011 Deals

Nov 13, 2011 14:31:05

Black Friday CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Deals
Click for larger image and other views

CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair

>> Click here to update Black Friday prices for CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair <<


Black Friday CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Overview

For Glass or Wood Shelves 1/8" to 15/16" (3 mm to 24 mm) Thick For Shelves Up to 10" (254 mm) Deep (Protrusion from Wall) Typical Applications Include Bathroom Shelves, Displays, Speakers, Collectibles CRL Glass Adjustable Shelf Brackets are designed to work with 1/8 to 15/16 inch (3 to 24 millimeter) thick glass or wood shelves, up to 10 inches (254 millimeters) deep. The material directly behind the bracket could have an effect on the brackets performance. The brackets are secured with one screw (included) to the substrate. In drywall installations for maximum strength, brackets should be secured to a stud no more than 16 inches (406 millimeters) apart. In concrete installations quality anchors are recommended. Hard materials such as concrete, tile or marble do not have the tendency to dent or collapse. However, depending on its condition, drywall can compress or dent and allow the front edge of the shelf to slant down. Therefore, the depth of the shelf and the amount of weight placed on it should be considered in this type of installation. For stud mounting, drill hole using 1/8" bit, to the depth of the screw and screw firmly. If using a wall anchor in necessary, be sure to select proper anchor for wall material, Maximum recommended weight per pair of DL631 Shelf Brackets correctly installed is 44 pounds (20 kilograms). Color: Black Height (Closed Position): 2-1/16 in (52 mm) Minimum Order: 1 Pair Additional Product Information: An adjustment screw is also included to accommodate various glass thicknesses. Important Note: Shelf Brackets should be mounted no more than 16" (406 mm) apart. TechnologyLK is not responsible for inappropriate use, poor surface conditions or overloading.



SAVE NOW on Black Friday offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Black Friday CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair

Limited Offer Today!! CRL Black Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

Wooden Counter Stools Desks And Workstations

TV Bracket Choices for Hanging Your TV

There is nothing worse than buying the best quality TV set and not having a good location in your home for it. Firstly, you have to find a good location for your LCD TV. The Flat Panel TV was designed to be mounted on a wall for optimum viewing pleasure. They give the semblance of a theater environment in the warmth and comfort of your home. Prior to the advent of mounted TV screens and TV brackets, the wall was used for book shelves, paintings, mirrors and clocks. With the introduction of Flat Panel TVs, wall brackets became a vital accessory for hanging the elegant TV flat panel screen. The availability of appropriate LCD brackets is not an issue since all types of TV brackets have been developed to handle the different sizes and weights of the television screens. In addition, different features have been embedded into the TV wall mounts to make it easier to locate the TV in just about any place on the wall, on the ceiling and even under cabinets. There are different TV brackets to handle the various degrees of tilt and swivel. Some TV brackets provide five degrees of tilt angle while others can reach thirty or more degrees of tilt angle. In the case of swivel facilities, TV mounts can swivel from ten to ninety degrees. Manufacturers are constantly improving the features of TV wall brackets to facilitate hanging the TV screen in any part of the house. They also consider the design of the TV wall mounts so it can blend with the ambiance and atmosphere of the home, and not stick out like a sore thumb.

Glass Shelving Brackets

TV wall brackets are made to handle different sizes and weight of TV screens. Manufacturers can give assurances that a wall mount will not break or crack under the weight and size of a TV screen, provided the correct TV wall brackets are used. However, they cannot claim the same assurances on the wall that the TV brackets are attached to. As such, they recommend that you attach the TV wall mounts on strong supports like studs. Avoid bolting the TV wall mount to a wooden wall without any stud behind the wall to provide a firm hold and added support. This appears to be the only limitation at the moment. So when you choose the ideal location for the TV flat panel, be sure there are studs behind the wooden wall. A cement or brick wall does not have the same limitations as a wooden wall. A TV wall mount can be anchored firmly to the cement wall. Just be sure the holes are not near each other because they could weaken the hold of the cement on the anchors.

Glass Shelving Brackets

TV wall brackets also have accessories such as cable and wire boxes that can be put below the TV mounts. These boxes help keep the cables and wires neatly and securely in place. When you run the wires across the wall, use wire covers to maintain a clean and aesthetic appearance. You can even color the wire covers so it blends with the colors of the wall and does not look like an eye sore. When hanging TV screens above a fireplace, be sure the screen and wires are far away so they don't get affected by the heat from the fireplace. Installing the correct TV bracket in the right location will ensure your television will be properly positioned for the best viewing experience.

TV Bracket Choices for Hanging Your TV
Glass Shelving Brackets

Wide Angle Compact Digital Camera Posturepedic Sealy Nikon Tactical Scopes

Your New Staircase Will Provide a Stunning Focal Point to Your Home or Workplace

From a simple but elegant straight flight to beautiful hardwood spirals or the most complex sweeping helical design a new staircase will provide a stunning focal point to your home or workplace. But sometimes the terminology involved can be a little confusing, so here's my step-by-step guide to your new staircase.

Glass Shelving Brackets

General: Staircase step: The staircase step is composed of the tread and riser.

Glass Shelving Brackets

Stair Tread: The tread is the part of the staircase that is stepped on. It is constructed to the same specifications (thickness) as any other flooring. The tread "depth" is measured from the outer edge of the step to the vertical "riser" between steps. The "width" is measured from one side to the other.

Stair Riser: The riser is the vertical portion between each tread on the stairs. This may be missing for an "open" stairs effect, subject to building regulations

Stair Nosing: An edge part of the tread that protrudes over the riser beneath. If it is present, this means that horizontally, the total "run" length of the stairs is not simply the sum of the tread lengths, the treads actually overlap each other slightly.

Starting step or Bullnose: Where stairs are open on one or both sides, the first step above the lower floor may be wider than the other steps and rounded. The balusters typically form a semicircle around the circumference of the rounded portion and the handrail has a horizontal spiral called a "volute" that supports the top of the balusters. Besides the cosmetic appeal, starting steps allow the balusters to form a wider, more stable base for the end of the handrail. Handrails that simply end at a post at the foot of the stairs can be less sturdy, even with a thick post. A double Bullnose can be used when both sides of the stairs are open.

Staircase Stringer or String: The structural member that supports the treads and risers. There are typically two stringers, one on either side of the stairs; though the treads may be supported many other ways. The stringers are sometimes notched so that the risers and treads fit into them. Stringers on open-sided stairs are often open themselves so that the treads are visible from the side. Such stringers are called "cut" stringers. Stringers on a closed side of the stairs are closed, with the support for the treads routed into the stringer.

Staircase Winders: Winders are steps that are narrower on one side than the other. They are used to change the direction of the stairs without landings. A series of winders form a circular or spiral stairway. When three steps are used to turn a 90 corner, the middle step is called a kite winder as a kite-shaped quadrilateral.

Stair Trim: Trim (e.g. quarter-round or baseboard trim) is normally applied where walls meet floors and often underneath treads to hide the reveal where the tread and riser meet. Shoe moulding may be used between where the lower floor and the first riser meet. Trimming a starting step is a special challenge as the last riser above the lower floor is rounded. Flexible, plastic trim is available for this purpose, however wooden mouldings are still used and are either cut from a single piece of rounded wood, or bent with laminations Scotia is concave moulding that is underneath the nosing between the riser and the tread above it.

Flight: A flight is an uninterrupted series of steps.

Floating stairs: A flight of stairs is said to be "floating" if there is nothing underneath. The risers are typically missing as well to emphasize the open effect. There may be only one stringer or the stringers otherwise minimized. Where building codes allow, there may not even be handrails.

Staircase Landing or Platform: A landing is the area of a floor near the top or bottom step of a stair. An intermediate landing is a small platform built as part of the stair between main floor levels and is typically used to allow stairs to change directions, or to allow the user a rest. As intermediate landings consume floor space they can be expensive to build. However, changing the direction of the stairs allows stairs to fit where they would not otherwise, or provides privacy to the upper level as visitors downstairs cannot simply look up the stairs to the upper level.

Stair Runner: Carpeting that runs down the middle of the stairs. Runners may be directly stapled or nailed to the stairs, or may be secured by specialized bar that holds the carpet in place where the tread meets the riser.

Spandrel: If there is not another flight of stairs immediately underneath, the triangular space underneath the stairs is called a "spandrel". It is frequently used as a closet. Staircase: This term is often reserved for the stairs themselves: the steps, railings and landings; though often it is used interchangeably with "stairs" and "stairway".

Stairway: This term is often reserved for the entire stairwell and staircase in combination; though often it is used interchangeably with "stairs" and "staircase".

Spiral stairs: Spiral stairs wind around a central pole. Spiral stairs typically have a handrail on the outer side only, and on the inner side just the central pole. A squared spiral stair assumes a square stairwell and expands the steps and railing to a square, resulting in unequal steps (larger where they extend into a corner of the square). A pure spiral staircase assumes a circular stairwell and the steps and handrail are equal and positioned screw-symmetrically. A tight spiral stairs with a central pole is very space efficient in the use of floor area. The term "spiral" is used incorrectly for a staircase from a mathematical viewpoint, as a mathematical spiral lies in a single plane and moves towards or away from a central point. A spiral staircase by the mathematical definition therefore would be of little use as it would afford no change in elevation. The correct mathematical term for motion where the locus remains at a fixed distance from a fixed line whilst moving in a circular motion about it is "helix". The presence or otherwise of a central pole does not affect the terminology applied to the design of the structure. Spiral stairs in medieval times were generally made of stone and typically wound in a clockwise direction (from the ascendor's point of view), in order to place at a disadvantage attacking swordsmen who were most often right-handed). This asymmetry forces the right-handed swordsman to engage the central pike and degrade his mobility compared with the defender who is facing down the stairs.

Helical Staircases: Helical staircases or circular stairs do not have a central pole and there is a handrail on both sides. Helical staircases have the advantage of a more uniform tread width when compared to spiral staircases. Helical staircases may also be built around an elliptical or oval platform. A double helix is possible, with two independent helical stairs in the same vertical space, allowing one person to ascend and another to descend, without ever meeting if they choose different helixes. Fire escapes, though built with landings and straight runs of stairs, are often functionally double helixes, with two separate stairs inter twinned and occupying the same floor space. This is often in support of legal requirements to have two separate fire escapes. Both spiral stairs and helical stairs can be characterized by the number of turns that are made. A "quarter-turn" stair deposits the person facing 90 degrees from the starting orientation. Likewise there are half-turn, three-quarters-turn and full-turn stairs. A continuous spiral may make many turns depending on the height. Very tall multi turn spiral staircases are usually found in old stone towers within fortifications, churches and in lighthouses.

Bespoke staircases: staircases are available in various kit and "off the shelf" formats. However, these types of ready made staircases never fit as well as a true bespoke staircase which has been professionally designed and manufactured by craftsmen to fit into a specific location. In order to make a bespoke staircase it is essential to first carry out a full on site survey. Boss stairs will visit the site with a professional surveyor and a staircase designer to take accurate measurements and give advice on the various design options available. These options would include; the plan or layout, the materials to be used in the construction of the staircase and also the type and style of railing system. First we would determine the layout and plan which in many cases is dictated by the space available. Then decide what type of timber to be used for the flight itself. For a hardwood flight we recommend Oak stairs, Walnut stairs, Ash stairs, Sapele stairs or Mahogany stairs. Contrasting timbers can be used to give a contemporary design, for instance Walnut treads with Oak or even painted risers look very effective. There is also the choice of a straight or cut string as well as the type and style of railing system to use, be that traditional wooden spindles and newel posts or perhaps a glass balustrade or even wrought iron can be used to make a very attractive feature. There are many designs of wooden spindles and an infinite number of patterns of wrought ironwork. Finally, we would determine the use of any additional details such as special starting steps or volutes. Back at the office the designer will draw up a CAD plan and provide a detailed estimate of the costs involved. These costs will include for manufacture and supply plus any installation and/or finishing, if required.

The Staircase Railing System: The balustrade is the system of railings and balusters that prevents people from falling over the edge.

Banister, Railing or Handrail: The angled member for hand holding, as distinguished from the vertical balusters which hold it up for stairs that are open on one side; there is often a railing on both sides, sometimes only on one side or not at all, on wide staircases there is sometimes also one in the middle, or even more. The term "banister" is sometimes used to mean just the handrail, or sometimes the handrail and the balusters or sometimes just the balusters.

Volute: A handrail end element for the Bullnose step that curves inward like a spiral. A volute is said to be right or left-handed depending on which side of the stairs the handrail is as one faces up the stairs.

Turnout: Instead of a complete spiral volute, a turnout is a quarter-turn rounded end to the handrail.

Gooseneck: The vertical handrail that joins a sloped handrail to a higher handrail on the balcony or landing is a gooseneck.

Rosette: Where the handrail ends in the wall and a half-newel is not used, it may be trimmed by a rosette.

Easings: Wall handrails are mounted directly onto the wall with wall brackets. At the bottom of the stairs such railings flare to a horizontal railing and this horizontal portion is called a "starting easing". At the top of the stairs, the horizontal portion of the railing is called a "over easing".

Core rail: Wood handrails often have a metal core to provide extra strength and stiffness, especially when the rail has to curve against the grain of the wood. The archaic term for the metal core is "core rail".

Baluster or Spindle: A term for the vertical posts that hold up the handrail. Sometimes simply called guards or spindles. Treads often require two balusters. The second baluster is closer to the riser and is taller than the first. The extra height in the second baluster is typically in the middle between decorative elements on the baluster. That way the bottom decorative elements are aligned with the tread and the top elements are aligned with the railing angle.

Newel: A large baluster or post used to anchor the handrail. Since it is a structural element, it extends below the floor and sub floor to the bottom of the floor joists and is bolted right to the floor joist. A half-newel may be used where a railing ends in the wall. Visually, it looks like half the newel is embedded in the wall. For open landings, a newel may extend below the landing for a decorative newel drop.

Baserail or Shoerail: For systems where the baluster does not start at the treads, they go to a base rail. This allows for identical balusters, avoiding the second baluster problem.

Fillet: A decorative filler piece on the floor between balusters on a balcony railing.

Handrails: Handrails may be continuous (sometimes called over-the-post) or post-to-post (or more accurately "newel-to-newel"). For continuous handrails on long balconies, there may be multiple newels and tandem caps to cover the newels. At corners, there are quarter-turn caps. For post-to-post systems, the newels project above the handrails. Another, more classical, form of hand railing which is still in use is the tangent method. A variant of the Cylindrical method of layout, it allows for continuous climbing and twisting rails and easings. It was defined from principles set down by architect Peter Nicholson in the 18th century.

Measurements:

Rise: The rise height or rise of each step is measured from the top of one tread to the next. It is not the physical height of the riser; the latter excludes the thickness of the tread. A person using the stairs would move this distance vertically for each step they take.

Tread Depth: The tread depth is measured from the edge of the nosing to the vertical riser.

Going: The going is measured from the edge of the nosing to the edge of nosing in plan view. A person using the stairs would move this distance forward with each step they take.

Total Run or Total Going: The total run or total going of the stairs is the horizontal distance from the first riser to the last riser. It is often not simply the sum of the individual tread lengths due to the nosing overlapping between treads.

Total Rise: The total rise of the stairs is the height between floors (or landings) that the flight of stairs is spanning.

Slope or Pitch: The slope or pitch of the stairs is the total rise divided by the total run (not the individual riser and treads due to the nosing). It is sometimes called the rake of the stairs. The pitch line is the imaginary line along the tip of the nosing of the treads. In the UK, stair pitch is measured in degrees from the horizontal.

Headroom: Headroom is the height above the nosing of a tread to the ceiling above it.

Walk line: For curved stairs, the inner radius of the curve may result in very narrow treads. The "walk line" is the imaginary line some distance away from the inner edge on which people are expected to walk. Building code will specify the distance. Building codes will then specify the minimum tread size at the walk line. To avoid confusion, the number of steps in a set of stairs is always the number of risers, not the number of treads.

I hope you have found this guide useful and that I may have given you some food for thought.

Your New Staircase Will Provide a Stunning Focal Point to Your Home or Workplace
Glass Shelving Brackets

Black Friday CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair 2011 Deals

Nov 11, 2011 20:44:40

Black Friday CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Deals
Click for larger image and other views

CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair

>> Click here to update Black Friday prices for CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair <<


Black Friday CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Overview

For Glass or Wood Shelves 1/8" to 15/16" (3 mm to 24 mm) Thick For Shelves Up to 10" (254 mm) Deep (Protrusion from Wall) Typical Applications Include Bathroom Shelves, Displays, Speakers, Collectibles CRL Glass Adjustable Shelf Brackets are designed to work with 1/8 to 15/16 inch (3 to 24 millimeter) thick glass or wood shelves, up to 10 inches (254 millimeters) deep. The material directly behind the bracket could have an effect on the brackets performance. The brackets are secured with one screw (included) to the substrate. In drywall installations for maximum strength, brackets should be secured to a stud no more than 16 inches (406 millimeters) apart. In concrete installations quality anchors are recommended. Hard materials such as concrete, tile or marble do not have the tendency to dent or collapse. However, depending on its condition, drywall can compress or dent and allow the front edge of the shelf to slant down. Therefore, the depth of the shelf and the amount of weight placed on it should be considered in this type of installation. For stud mounting, drill hole using 1/8" bit, to the depth of the screw and screw firmly. If using a wall anchor in necessary, be sure to select proper anchor for wall material, Maximum recommended weight per pair of DL631 Shelf Brackets correctly installed is 44 pounds (20 kilograms). Color: Chrome Height (Closed Position): 2-1/16 in (52 mm) Minimum Order: 1 Pair Additional Product Information: An adjustment screw is also included to accommodate various glass thicknesses. Important Note: Shelf Brackets should be mounted no more than 16" (406 mm) apart. TechnologyLK is not responsible for inappropriate use, poor surface conditions or overloading.



SAVE NOW on Black Friday offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Black Friday CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair

Limited Offer Today!! CRL Chrome Adjustable Glass Shelf Bracket - Pair Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

Monopod Tripod Combination

Woodworking Tips - Furniture Fittings

The usefulness of veneered and melamine-faced chipboard has been revolutionised by the wide range of fittings available for joining it together and for making furniture, such as fitted cupboards and wardrobes.

Glass Shelving Brackets

All the fittings described on this article are sold separately in do-it-yourself shops and by mail order, but the fittings supplied with bought furniture (particularly kitchen units) are identical. Many of the fittings are known as KD (knockdown) because they have the characteristic (unlike conventional woodworking joints) that the furniture can be taken apart once it has been assembled.

Glass Shelving Brackets

Chipboard screws and plugs

Ordinary woodscrews do not take well in chipboard, and special chipboard screws have been developed. Looking more like self-tapping screws than woodscrews. chipboard screws are usually threaded all the way to the head and often have a double thread, which means the screw goes in faster. The screw bites into the chipboard as it is put in to give a good grip. Some larger chipboard screws come with a special drilling jig to make sure the holes to receive them are drilled in the correct place. To cover the normal chipboard screws, special plastic covering plugs are available in white, magnolia or brown, depending on the type of chipboard being used. These cither push into the Pozidriv head of the screw or into a counterbored hole in which the screw is recessed.

To get a stronger connection, a chipboard plug can be used. Some of these work on the same principle as solid-wall fixing (expanding as the screw is driven in) while others are glued into the chipboard; both allow ordinary woodscrews to be used. A hole (typically 8mm in diameter) is drilled in the edge of the chipboard which will receive the screw and the screw is driven into the plug to give a secure fixing. Again, a dowelling or other jig will keep the hole square.

Where the countersunk head of a screw could damage a thin surface, surface or recessed screw cups can be used.

Block joints

These plastic blocks are used for joining two pieces of chipboard at right-angles.

The simplest type the mini-block - has a dowel to locate in one piece and a single screw to secure to the other. This makes for an unobtrusive joint, but not a very strong one.

A better connection is given by the one-piece block joint which is fitted into an internal corner and is simply screwed to the two pieces of chipboard. A neater result is given by a rigid triangular corner joint.

Better still is the two-part (or 'knockdown') block joint where one part is screwed to each piece of chipboard and the two joined together by a slotted-head machine screw. This joint has the advantage that it can easily be taken apart but, like the one-piece joint, takes up room inside the cupboard. Block joints generally come in a choice of white or brown colours.

Cam joints

A cam joint is more complicated than a block joint, but is completely unobtrusive once fitted. A nylon dowel is inserted in the edge of one board and is locked by driving a steel pin into it. A large plug is fitted in the other board in a hole drilled by an end mill. The dowel fits into the plug and a cam screw is then turned to lock it in place. Although neat, this type of joint is more difficult to make than other types and is not always very rigid.

Panel connectors

There are two special connectors you can use for joining panels end to end or back to back.

For joining panels end to end (two adjacent lengths of worktop, for example), a panel butt joint connector is used. This fits into a pair of holes drilled in the surface of the two boards to be joined (again using an end mill) and a slot is cut to join the two holes. The connector is positioned and tightened with a spanner, drawing the two boards together.

For joining panels back to back (connecting together two adjacent kitchen cupboards, for example), a cabinet connecting screw is used. This simply fits into a hole drilled through the walls of both cupboards and tightening it will bring them together.

Hinges

There is a wide selection of other types of hinge available for making your own furniture.

For kitchen cupboards, the most useful type of hinge is probably the adjustable concealed hinge which is fitted into two large holes drilled in the back face of the door and the side of the cupboard. This hole (typically 35mm) has to be made with a special drill bit called an end mill, which drills a flat-bottomed hole. For control on the depth to which it is drilled (which is crucial), the end mill is best used in an electric drill fitted to a vertical drill stand equipped with a depth stop.

Cupboard fixings

When it comes to fitting cupboards in place, there are several different types of fittings which can help.

First there is a variety of catches, including magnetic catches, magnetic touch catches (push to open; push again to close), roller catches and ball catches. If certain types of hinge have been used (and the door is hung properly), no catch is needed at all the hinge will hold il closed.

Hanging wall cupboards can often be a problem if the securing holes (for wall plugs) in the wall have not been made in exactly the correct place. Cabinet suspension fittings and cabinet hanging brackets both allow a degree of adjustment once lilted; the hanging bracket provides the more secure fixing.

An angle plate can also be used for holding cupboards to the wall, but is more commonly used for securing worktops to the sides of base unit kitchen cupboards.

For lightweight cupboards (or wall shelving units), glass plates can be used: these are simply screwed to the back of the cupboard and the surface of the wall, which means the cupboard stands out from the surface of the wall by the thickness of the plate.

At the bottom of kitchen base unit cup¬boards, some kind of foot is necessary to keep the chipboard sides off the floor -particularly important if the chipboard is left unsealed when any water on the floor could damage it. Feet may also be needed to deal with uneven floors, though many kitchen fitters will simply pack the cup¬boards out with slips of hardboard. The simplest type is the metal foot, which is banged into the bottom of the cupboard sides. More sophisticated are the cabinet leveller, the base levelling screw and the adjustable foot, all of which allow for adjustments to be made to allow for discrepancies in the floor surface. As well as feet, there is a range of castors which can be used if the cupboard is to be movable.

Drawers

Making drawers in the traditional way can be very satisfying, but is hard work and, for a kitchen cupboard, may not be the best solution as all-timber drawers can be difficult to keep clean.

There are various drawer-making kits on the market, which use plastic slotted sections for the two sides and back of the drawer: you add your own front (sometimes attached to a fourth plastic section) and base (typically melamine-faced hard-board, positioned melamine face up).

Making your own drawer like this is fairly simple and involves only cutting the profiles to length, screwing pieces on to the back of the drawer front and slotting the whole thing together. You must double-check that everything is correct before you assemble the drawers (for example, the base is the right way up), because, once assembled, these drawers cannot readily be taken apart.

The drawer slides on simple rectangular plastic runners which are fitted to the sides of the kitchen or other cupboard.

Woodworking Tips - Furniture Fittings
Glass Shelving Brackets

Digital Camera 3 Inch Lcd 4 Shelf Folding Bookcase

Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System

Special Price!!! Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System

Nov 10, 2011 02:56:52

Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System
Click for larger image and other views

Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System

>> Click here to update Cheapest prices for Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System <<

Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System Feature

  • Holds 70LBS
  • Cable Management
  • Aluminum and Glass Construction
  • Easy Assembly
  • Drywall or Stud installation


Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System Overview

The AS3S is a tri-shelf cable management system. It can be used with or without a Plasma/LCD mount. This unit is designed to fit under your display and provide an on wall solution for other components such as cable boxes, DVD players, game consoles, and stereo components. There are three 2.25-Inch holes on the aluminum plate that allow you to cleanly run your cables up to your TV or down to another component, as well as out the bottom to an outlet. After reviewing our competition we realized that most shelving units need to be mounted directly into a wall stud. In most cases the wall stud is placed to the right or to the left of the display, which is not where most people prefer to have their shelves mounted. This is still the most secure option however, after significant research we’ve found that using the correct toggle bolts can allow you to mount your shelving unit wherever you see fit. With the combination of four of these toggle bolts the shelving unit is able to hold well over 70LBS safely. Each individual toggle bolt provides 75LBS of support. Please note that a good toggle bolt is still only as good as the quality of the drywall it is mounted into. If you have water damage or .25-Inch drywall please add a support for your shelving unit.



SAVE NOW on the special offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System

Limited Offer Today!! Cheetah Mounts AS3S 3 Shelf Wall Mount Bracket for LCD, LED and Plasma TV with Cable Management System Black Friday and Cyber Monday Deals

Sony Camera Batteries